From Garut to Jakarta: The Journey of ‘Cing Cangkeling’, a Revolution in Indonesian Specialty Coffee

By Diah Afrilian
Jakarta, September 22, 2026

In the heart of Indonesia’s thriving specialty coffee scene, a new narrative is being written—not just in the cups of urban enthusiasts, but in the soil of West Java. Roemah Koffie, a prominent Jakarta-based roastery and cafe, has officially unveiled its latest pride: "Cing Cangkeling." This isn’t merely a new product launch; it represents a profound shift in the relationship between the farm gate and the final brew. Sourced from the high-altitude slopes of Madalagiri, Garut, this rare Yellow Bourbon variety is redefining the potential of Indonesian Arabica through innovative processing and direct collaboration.

The Origin Story: Unearthing a Gem in Garut

The journey of Cing Cangkeling began long before it reached the espresso machines of Jakarta. Felix TJ, CEO of Roemah Koffie, describes the discovery not as a business transaction, but as a pilgrimage. While many roasters rely on third-party exporters or middlemen to procure beans, Felix opted for a "boots-on-the-ground" approach.

His search led him to the remote mountains of Madalagiri, Garut, where he encountered the family of Abah Jujun. Amidst the lush, misty landscape of West Java, Felix found more than just high-quality cherries; he found a family deeply dedicated to the craft of cultivation. The Yellow Bourbon variety, known for its challenging growth cycle and delicate flavor profile, was being nurtured with meticulous care.

"The meeting with Cing Cangkeling happened directly at the source," Felix explains. "When you stand in the garden with the farmers, seeing the passion they pour into every single plant, the coffee stops being a commodity. It becomes a story."

The Architect of Flavor: Roby Siswanda’s Process

While the terroir of Madalagiri provides the canvas, the masterpiece is painted by the processing methods implemented by the farmers. Central to this project is Roby Siswanda, one of Abah Jujun’s children. Roby represents a new generation of Indonesian coffee farmers—those who are as proficient in the laboratory as they are in the field.

Roby has mastered the anaerobic fermentation process, a technique that requires precision, temperature control, and a deep understanding of microbiology. By controlling the fermentation environment, he has been able to unlock complex, fruit-forward notes in the Yellow Bourbon beans that were previously overshadowed by traditional wet-hulled processing methods common in the region.

This technical advancement has significantly increased the value of their crop. For the farmers, this means more than just a higher price per kilogram; it signifies recognition and economic sustainability. To bridge the gap between the farm and the consumer, Roemah Koffie took the unprecedented step of inviting the family of Abah Jujun to Jakarta—a journey that marked the family’s first visit to the capital.

Chronology: From Farm to Cup

The development of Cing Cangkeling followed a rigorous path of collaboration:

1. Exploration Phase (Early 2026): Felix TJ initiated a series of trips to Garut to scout for unique varieties that could showcase the true potential of West Javanese coffee.
2. Relationship Building: The partnership with Abah Jujun’s family was established based on mutual respect and shared quality goals.
3. Process Innovation: Roby Siswanda experimented with anaerobic fermentation, specifically calibrating the process to enhance the natural sweetness and acidity of the Yellow Bourbon cherries.
4. Curated Selection: Felix TJ performed the final cupping in the field, ensuring the lot met the exacting standards required for a specialty launch.
5. Market Introduction (September 2026): The product was officially launched in Jakarta, featuring the farmers themselves as guest baristas, effectively removing the traditional wall between the producer and the consumer.

The Sensory Experience: Manual Brews and Mocktails

Cing Cangkeling’s versatility is a testament to its quality. In the hands of a skilled barista, the bean transforms based on the method of extraction.

For purists, the Manual Brew remains the gold standard. When brewed with a pour-over technique, the coffee reveals its true character: a vibrant acidity reminiscent of stone fruits, balanced by a deep, brown-sugar sweetness. The clarity of the cup allows the drinker to taste the altitude of the Garut mountains in every sip.

However, the team at Roemah Koffie, led by Zikri Mubarak, wanted to push boundaries. They developed a series of Signature Beverages that challenge the perception of coffee. One standout creation involves blending the espresso base of Cing Cangkeling with extract of Sedap Malam (tuberose) flowers, white grape syrup, and a precise pinch of saline solution. This mocktail-style beverage highlights how the complexity of the bean can be harmonized with botanical elements, resulting in a drink that is both sophisticated and refreshing.

Official Response: A New Standard for Sustainability

The collaboration between Roemah Koffie and the farmers of Madalagiri highlights a growing trend in the Indonesian specialty coffee industry: the move toward radical transparency. By bringing the farmers to the city, the roastery isn’t just selling coffee; they are selling a connection.

"When I stand behind the bar," Roby Siswanda noted during his recent ‘bar takeover’ event in Jakarta, "and I hand a cup of coffee to a customer, I am not just serving a drink. I am sharing a piece of my home, my family’s hard work, and the land that sustains us. That is the true value of specialty coffee."

Felix TJ echoed this sentiment, emphasizing that the industry must move toward models where the producer is seen as a partner. "The ‘Cing Cangkeling’ project is a pilot for how we want to work moving forward. It’s about creating an ecosystem where the quality of life for the farmer improves in tandem with the quality of the coffee in our cups."

Implications for the Future of Indonesian Coffee

The successful launch of Cing Cangkeling carries significant implications for the broader coffee landscape in Indonesia:

• Elevating Local Varieties: By showcasing Yellow Bourbon, Roemah Koffie is proving that Indonesia can produce more than just the standard Catimor or Bourbon varieties. It encourages other farmers to explore niche, high-value cultivars.
• Technological Literacy: Roby Siswanda’s success with anaerobic processing serves as a benchmark for young farmers. It demonstrates that investment in processing knowledge is as crucial as investment in farm equipment.
• The "Experience" Economy: The shift toward signature beverages and interactive events (like the bar takeover) indicates that consumers are increasingly looking for a story behind their caffeine fix. They want to know the name of the farmer and the journey the bean took.
• Economic Empowerment: By cutting out unnecessary layers in the supply chain, the direct trade model ensures a greater portion of the profit remains with the producers. This is essential for the long-term sustainability of specialty farming in Indonesia.

Conclusion: A Cup Above the Rest

As the sun sets on the bustling streets of Jakarta, inside the warm, aromatic confines of Roemah Koffie, the legacy of the Garut mountains continues to unfold. Cing Cangkeling is more than a fleeting trend; it is a manifestation of the potential inherent in Indonesian agriculture when passion, science, and commerce align.

The success of this collaboration serves as a blueprint for the future. It tells a story of a family in Garut, a roastery in Jakarta, and a shared vision that, one cup at a time, is changing the way we perceive coffee. For those looking to experience the pinnacle of what West Java has to offer, Cing Cangkeling is not just recommended—it is an essential journey for the palate.

In the words of the farmers and the baristas who brought this to life: "The best coffee is the one that connects us." With Cing Cangkeling, that connection has never been clearer, nor more delicious.